HOLISTICALLY SPEAKING
( articles from the book " HOLISTICALLY SPEAKING " written by Jerry
Soll )
CONTROLLING FLEAS ORGANICALLY
AND NATURALLY
In order to control fleas there are three areas that should
be treated. Controlling flea infestation is a continious project. There is
no quick fix or a one time treatmont to solve the problem.
These are the 3 areas that need to be treated , # 1 is on
the pet itself , # 2 is inside of your house and # 3 is the outdoor
area around your house. You have to treat # 1 and # 2 at
the same time or you will not have very good results. We
can help you control fleas on your pet and inside of your
home. At the present time we do not have anything to treat the
outside area of your home , BUT , we are working on it. We will
talk briefly about the outdoor area and then go on to areas
# 1 and #2.
There are natural organisms called Nematodes which feed on
flea larvae and similar such insect larvae. People have had varying
degrees of success with these as a way of controlling fleas
out doors. Use your computer search engine and you will find information
on these and you can see if they are of any benifit
to you. We are not fans of chemicals as they are toxic to
the environment and the insects develop an immunity to them in
a short period of time. They also kill the good bugs along
with the bad.
d-LIMONENE PET SHAMPOO
First of all what is d-Limonene ? d-Limonene is the major component
of the oil from the citrus peel. When citrus fruits go through
the juicing process , the oil is separated from the juice and
distilled to recover certain flavors and fragrance compounds. The bulk
of the oil is left behind and collected. This is food grade
d-Limonene. After the juicing process , the peels are conveyed to a
steam extractor. This extracts more of the oil from the peel. When
the steam is condensed , a layer of oil floats on the surface
of the condensed water. This is technical grade d-Limonene.
d-Limonene is approved by the F.D.A. as a food additive , and
also meets the ( G.R.A.S. ) standards ( generally recognized as safe ) also
set by the F.D.A. It is approved by the E.P.A. as an insecticide.
When d-Limonene comes in contact with an insect it breaks down
the waxy layer of the exoskeleton , this is the hard waxy shell
of the insect. The wax then gets into the breathing pores of
the insect and it is killed. It also kills the eggs and
the larvae. The citrus fragrance is also a natural insect repellent.
Insects do not like the fragrance of citrus. How often do you
see an orange that has been harmed by an insect ?
Why do some flea shampoos work and others do not ? The answer
is that insects develop immunities to chemicals and pesticides. They
work until the insects tolerance to them build up and then
they are immune to them. So , the manufacturers increase the strength
of the chemical pesticide. Then they work for awhile until the
insects tolerances increase and their immunity is increased. So it goes
on and on. Not only do the chemicals no longer work to kill
fleas and other insects , there are also two other important facts
to consider. One is all of the increased strength toxic chemicals
you are putting on your pet and the other is the effects
on the environment.
Natural products like d-Limonene work on a mechanical basics so
that insects can not develop immunities to them. Another point to
think about is working with the chemical products. If you shampoo
your pet every couple of weeks your contact with the toxic
products is fairly small. But , if you are a professional groomer or
other similar person you are working with this stuff 40 hours
or so a week. It has a long term effect on the people
who are around it all the time. d-Limonene is not harmful to
people , animals or the environment , and insects can't develop an immunity
to it.
Wet the pet's coat thoroughly with warm water. Apply the shampoo
along the back bone and start working with the head area
first and work your way backwards towards the tail. If you start
to shampoo the pet in the middle area first the fleas will
come forward and seek shelter around the eyes. So by starting
with the head area first you help prevent this. Be careful
not to get the shampoo into the eyes , if you do rinse the
eyes with some water. Use enough shampoo to make a good lather.
It is important to leave the shampoo on the pet for 5 -
10 minutes so that the citrus can do its job , a minimum of
at least 5 minutes.
If the pet is difficult to shampoo you can apply the
shampoo , lather it up and then let the pet run around or
what ever it wants to do. Then rinse it off 10 or 15
minutes later. It takes the citrus a minimum of 5 minutes
to do a proper killing job of the fleas , eggs and the larvae.
It also conditions the skin and the coat. If the pet has
dry , scaly , itchy skin conditions , flea or other insect bites the citrus
does a wonderful job of helping it heal. Not in all cases , but
in general it does a pretty good job of healing various
skin conditions. The citrus conditions and leaves the coat in its
best natural appearance. Pet odors are eliminated and a pleasant citrus
fragrance is left.
Although citrus is a natural product some pets may still have
allergies to it. So if you think your pet may be allergic
or have an allergic reaction to citrus or any other type
of shampoo do a small test area on a paw or similar
area before you shampoo the whole animal. Animals can be very ,
sensitive , so it is better to be safe than sorry.
To do a really excellent cleaning and conditioning job , shampoo
the pet a second time. The first time removes most of the
heavy dirt and grime , the second time does a really deep cleaning
and conditioning of the coat. You will only use a fraction of
the amount of shampoo you used the first time and will get
3 - 4 times the suds. Some citrus shampoos are formulated so they do
not really suds a lot the first time , they clean. It rinses out
much easier and completely this way. Lots of suds does not mean
that it is cleanng , it means that is making a lot of
suds. It is just a sales gimmick , more smoke and mirrors.
One of the major causes of dry skin on animals is the
use of dish soap for shampooing the animal. Dish soap does an
excellent job of removing dirt and grease from dishes ( that is
why it is called dish soap ). When it is used on an animal
it removes the natural oils from their hair and skin. The skin
becomes dry and itchy and the pet starts scratching. You take
your pet to the vet and sometimes a lot of expensive tests
are done and the cause is never really determined. And , it could
all have been prevented by not using dish soap. Some times when
some one else besides you shampoos your pet , take your own shampoo
and have them use it so that you know what is being
used on your " BEST FRIEND ".
Harsh flea and tick shampoos are another cause of dry skin.
If the fleas and ticks haven't developed an immunity to the
chemicals and are killed , the pet is still left with dry skin.
Some times the dry skin is caused by the chemicals or a
bad skin condition is made worse. The fleas are gone , but now
your pet has a skin infection.
Most d-Limonene shampoos that are on the market contain 5 %
d-Limonene and could be considered as a PROFEEIONAL STRENGTH shampoo.
They should not be used on animals unless they are at least
12 weeks of age , it is simply to strong to be used on them.
In order to kill fleas , eggs and the larvae the d-Limonene
shampoo must be at least 1 1/2 - 2 % in strength. Any thing weaker
will not do a proper killing job. SO if you try to STRETCH
the shampoo by diluting it , do not do it more than 2 or
2 1/2 times or it simply will not do a proper job of
killing the fleas. Any thing stronger than 5 % is to strong to
be used on animals the size of a dog or cat.
NOW , we come to a special situation. What do you use on
puppies and kittens that are under 12 weeks of age and get
fleas ? Young animals from new born to age 12 weeks get fleas
and ticks , BUT there is nothing on the market to use on
them. Small dogs are another situation. A small dog ( a dog under
10 pounds ) can have VERY SINSITIVE skin and the 5 % shampoo
is just to strong to use on them , even if they are 3
or 4 years old. The same goes for cats in general. The 5
% can cause the dog or cat to break out with a rash
or they get little red bumps on them. There are a few d-Limonene
shampoos on the market that are FORMULATED specifically for these
" SPECIAL NEEDS " animals , but it is hard to find them , and they
are not readily available. So if you find it consider yourself
fortunate because you have found a special purpose product that
is not very common. When you shampoo very young animals make sure
that you KEEP THEM WARM by drying them with a towel , and
then wrapping them in a towel. This shampoo also works very well
on head lice.
There are several uses for d-Limonene shampoos. If your pet is sprayed
by a skunk , the use of d-Limonene neutralizes the skunk odor.
If you have a d-Limonene dip use that first and leave it
on for about 10 minutes. Then rinse it off and shampoo with
the stronger 5 % PROFESSIONAL STRENGTH shampoo and leave that on for
about 10 minutes before you rinse it off. If the skunk spraying
was severe you may have to repeat the process.
While we are on the subject of fleas one of best things
you can do is to use a flea comb. A flea comb is just
a fine toothed comb , comb your pet daily. They love the attention
and it keeps their coats looking good. Have a bowl of hot
soapy water handy and as soon as you have a flea on
the comb dunk it in the hot soapy solution. If you hesitate
and look at the flea it will jump off and be in your
home environment.
DAILY CITRUS FRAGRANCE and CONDITIONING SPRAY
Insects do not like the smell of citrus , by daily applying
a light spray on your pets stomach and back and then lightly
rubbing it in , your pet has a citrus fragrance on it that
helps to repel insects. It is not 100 % effective , but it works
pretty well. It also makes your pet smell nice. It works very
well keeping fleas , ticks and mosquitoes off of your pet.
As an example , lets say that you have a bowl of grapes
on your kitchen table. Insects and gnats would be attracted to
it. But , if you have a bowl of oranges they would not come
near it. Insects do not like the smell of citrus.
It works great on indoor pets that only go outdoors for
a little while. If the animal is outdoors all of the time
or most of the time , it breaks down. Especially in humid climates.
If you are in a dry climate it lasts a lot better. The
pet rolls on the ground and gets into things etc. and the
spray is not designed for that. It is formulated for indoor pets
that go out side for a short period of time. You might have
good luck using it on animals that are mostly outdoor pets. Any
thing is worth a try , but keep in mind that it was designed
for indoor animals. As they say . your milage may vary.
Another important thing to be aware of , is the fact of , was
this product made using FOOD GRADE citrus or not ? Pets are always
grooming themselves. If they ingest any of this product , you want to
make sure that the manufacturer used FOOD GRADE citrus , so make
sure that it is , you have enough to worry about.
CITRUS FLEA and CONDITIONG DIPS
A citrus dip has the advantage over a shampoo in that it
doesn't have to be rinsed off. Because it does not contain any
soap. In fact it is better if it is left on and not
rinsed off. By not rinsing it off your pet has a strong
citrus fragrance on it that will help to repel fleas and
other insects. Also the citrus fragrance makes them smell nice.
There are different brands on the market made by various companies.
Since this product will probably not be rinsed off make sure
that it is made using FOOD GRADE citrus , so that if your
pet ingests it while grooming there will not be any problems.
Also look for a product that has a d-Limonene content of
50 % or more, In a dip you want to make a formula that is
about 1 - 1 1/2 % in the final solution after it is mixed. In
shampoos you have a higher d-Limonene content. The dip is a different
situation , here you do not want or need the higher content as
you do in a shampoo , two totally different applications.
There are products on the market that claim to contain at
least 100 % d-Limonene
content , and they probably are. That is not the point d-Limonene
is ( orange oil ) oil and water do not mix , they separate. In order
to get the oil to mix with water and to stay mixed
in a solution together for a long enough period of time you
need a third ingredient called an EMULSIFIER. This allows the d-Limonene
and water to be mixed together and to stay in a solution
long enough to do its work on the animal. BUT , it must be
mixed well just before applying it , other wise it will separate. If
you are using a hand sprayer it is a good idea to
shake it fairly often as you are using it.
Some dogs and most cats don't like to be bathed , so dips
come in handy for these applications. These types of dips are
not to be used on animals under 12 weeks of age. Also , dips
of a stronger percentage of d-Limonene are not recommended for
cats , as they are very sensitive animals. If you think your pet
may be allergic to citrus or have an allergic reaction , do a
small area as a test before you do the whole animal. Try
it on a paw or some other small area as a test. Avoid
eye contact , if it gets in the eyes , flush with water.
The citrus in the dip works just like the citrus in the
shampoo. It breaks down the waxy shell of the insects exoskeleton ,
the wax gets into the breathing pores and that kills the
fleas or other insects. It also takes care of the eggs and
larvae and conditions the skin. If the animal has dry , scaly , itchy
skin , flea or other insect bites the citrus helps to heal it
in a majority of the cases.
If your pet gets sprayed by a skunk the dip does a
great job of neutralizing the odor. Leave it on for at least
10 minutes and then rinse it off. Then shampoo with the 5 %
PROFESSIONAL STRENGTH shampoo and leave that on for 10 minutes
and then rinse it off. If it was an extremely strong spray
you may have to repeat the procedure.
Using a wash tub or something simular will help you from
wasting the dip. If you mix the dip and just pour it
on the animal it will run off onto the ground and be
wasted. By using some type of tub what runs off is collected
and can be put back onto the animal. Place the recommended amount
of dip into a gallon jug or bucket. Put the water in first
and then add the dip to it. By doing it this way you
reduce the chances of the dip being splashed out and getting
into your eyes. Mix well and then pour it over the animal. By
using the tub what runs off will collect in the bottom of
the tub. Use a wash cloth or a rag and rub it into
the animals coat. You want to saturate the fur and make good
contact with the skin. Make sure you get all the hard to
reach areas like under the legs and around the base of the
tail , this is where the fleas and other insects like to hide.
Some people like to use a one gallon pump sprayer. There are
a number of different methods that people like.
DIATOMACEOUS EARTH ( AS A FLEA POWDER )
Diatomaceous earth is the fossilized remains of single cell algae .
They are mined in various grades for several uses. Use only FOOD
GRADE diatomaceous earth in your home and for your animals. Diatomaceous
earth that is used for commercial purposes comes from the same
sources , but it is processed at very high temperatures and things
may be added to it. It is used in swimming pool filters
and other commercial applications. If you go into the Garden Department
of the major home improvement stores you will see boxes of
Diatomaceous Earth . This is not FOOD GRADE , it is for swimming
pool filters etc. Stay away from it , it can be harmful to you
and your pets if it is not handled properly.
Food Grade diatomaceous earth has a crystalline silica content of
less than 1 %. The commercial product has a much higher content
and is harmful if not handled properly. It is easy to get
the two confused ( let alone trying to pronounce the name correctly
). Do your research , become informed about it. Just don't take some
ones word for it. The internet has several articles that will
explain its uses in great detail , along with lots of other information.
Do your research and make your own decisions , knowledge is power. Diatomaceous
earth is approved by the E.P.A. as an insecticide.
From here on for simplicity diatomaceous earth will be called
D. E. It has an abrasive action on the waxy outer layer of
an insects shell. This is called the exoskeleton , which acts as a
container that holds in the insects body fluids. The insect doesn't
have blood as we do , for a lack of better words , it has
body fluids. The D. E. gets into the insects joints on its many
legs and other moving parts , and on the body itself. Once enough
of the exoskeleton has worn down to cause the insect to
lose enough body fluids , death soon follows. Insects can not develop
an immunity to this as they can with chemicals and pesticides
, because it is a mechanical action. Why and how insects develop
immunity to chemicals and pesticides will be explained in greater
detail in another section. Insects are great survivors and adapt to
changes quickly.
On your pet apply the powder along the back , under the belly
, on the leg joints and on the tail. Basically all over the
animal. Rub it in so that the powder gets down onto the
skin. A good general rule of thumb is to use 1 teaspoonful
of powder for each 10 pounds that your pet weighs. You don't
want pat the dog or cat and see a dust cloud , but you
need enough to do the job. So experiment and you will find
out what is best for your application. If your pet has a
severe flea problem and it is the first time that you are
using the D. E. apply it every 3 days for a week and then
cut back to once a week. The D. E. is not a fast acting
product. It is recommended that you use a good natural d-Limonene
( Citrus ) shampoo or dip to kill the fleas , eggs and larvae
that are on the pets , then after the pet is good and dry
apply the powder. Just using the powder alone can take a couple
of days to kill the fleas. The D. E. can have a drying effect
on your pets skin if you put too much on too often. So
observe how things are progressing , you do not want to cause
a dry skin problem. The citrus shampoo is not only a natural
insecticide , but it is also a natural skin conditioner.
For a proper flea control not only do you have to treat
the animal but also the animals environment. If your pet is an
indoor animal and it has fleas you can be pretty sure the
fleas are in your home also. When you see fleas in your
carpet and on the furniture there are many more fleas in
your house at various stages of development.
To control the fleas in your home apply the D. E. to the carpeting
at a ratio of not more than a 1/8 of a teaspoon to
a square yard of carpeting. The old saying that if one is good
, then two is better DOES NOT apply here. If you put too
much down you can have a DUSTY SITUATION. Also , you do not need
any more than that. Take a broom or a rug rake and work
the powder into the carpeting and leave it alone. It takes 48
- 72 hours to get the fleas under control. The powder is
very binding an will adhere to the carpet fibers and work
its way down into the carpet. Don't vacuum for 48 hours so
the powder has a chance to do its work.
When you vacuum you will not remove all of the powder
because it binds to the nap of the carpeting. Also it is
not necessary to replace the vacuum cleaner bag each time that
you vacuum as a lot of people claim. Sure , fleas and flea eggs
get sucked up into the bag and so does some of the
D. E. , so when the flea eggs hatch , the larvae come into contact
with the D. E. powder and that is the end of them. The money
you save by not replacing the vacuum cleaner bag each time
will pay for the D. E. that you use. Every couple of months or
when flea infestation is noticed reapply some more D. E. powder to
replace what has been worn out by walking on it or removed
by vacuuming. By using FOOD GRADE D. E. you do not have to worry
about your children or pets coming in contact with the powder.
It is a good idea to put some powder under the cushions
of the couch and chairs , in the carpeting under the couch
and beds and any other such places that you can think of.
Some people put it in the cracks and crevices around the
house etc. If your pet rides in your car with you and you
have carpeting on the floor of the car it would be a
good idea to put some powder there.
Fleas have 4 stages in their life cycle. The egg , larvae , pupa
and the adult. The D. E. will take care of the adults. It has no
effect on the eggs , they have to hatch first. When the larvae
hatch they dehydrate when they come into contact with the powder.
The larvae that survive go into the pupa stage where they
form cocoons they stay in until they hatch into adults. By having
the powder in the carpeting you will always have some thing
there to take care of the larvae and then the pupa when
it comes out of its cocoon. The eggs and the pupa can each
stay dormant for a period of a year or more. The majority
of adult fleas , eggs , larvae and pupa will be found with in
10 feet ofwhere the pet sleeps or lays most. So give these
areas special attention. Clean or replace the bedding and apply a
lot of the D. E. powder to this area.
DIATOMACEOUS EARTH ( AS A NATURAL DE - WORMER )
There are 2 types of Diatomaceous Earth , they both come from the
same source , but after they are mined they are processed differently.
One is heat treated , it is commercially processed and things are
added to it. It is used in commercial filter applications , swimming
pool filters and other such purposes. Do not use this type
as a food additive or for the control of insects. If you
go into the " Garden Section " of the major home improvement chain
stores you will see big boxes of D. E. , the short name for
diatomaceous earth , stay away from this for our purposes of animal
care.
Food grade D. E. works in a purely physical and not a
chemical manner. So it has no chemical toxicity and parasites can
not develop an immunity to it. It has been F.D.A. approved as
an additive to animal food not to exceed more than 2 % of
the feed. It is used in this application as an " anti-caking agent
". Which means that some animal feed has a tendency to clump
or cake together and the addition of D. E. helps to prevent
this. ( This is a story all by itsself ).
Basically what we have here is a natural non - chemical substance
with the ability to aid in the control of internal parasites.
D. E. is a naturally occurring organic substance that works in harmony
with the body as one of nature's gifts , in ways that can
not always be explained.
D. E. has an abrasive effect on the parasite's outer coating ( it's
skin ). This action weakens the parasite and causes it to pass out
of the animal in the stool. In some cases the parasites may
be vomited up or be digested by the animals digestive juices.
It has no effect on the walls of the animals digestive tract
or the internal organs , as the body dissolves it. As a matter
of fact D. E. contains several " trace minerals " which are very
beneficial to the animals system.
There is a time and place for every thing. If your pet
is extremely infested and being seriously affected by worms and
other internal parasites , we would recommend using a conventional chemical
treatment as an emergency measure. This is for its " Quick Knock
Down Ability ". All things being considered , taking this course of action
is the humane thing to do. As this type of treatment relieves
the " Immediate Suffering of Your Pet "
Once this " Extreme Emergency " situation has passed , we highly recommend
the milder , non - chemical approach to maintain your pet's health and
well being. This eliminates the stress and sickness that are sometimes
caused by the " Side Effects " of the chemical treatments.
The recommended daily amount to give a cat is 1/8 - 1/4
teaspoon per day , for a small dog give it 1/2 teaspoon each
day and for a dog over 50 pounds give it 1 teaspoon
per day. If you use dry food put a little water in a
glass and add the D. E. to it , let it set for a few
minutes until it becomes moist and stir it. Then pour the solution
over the dry food as a gravy and it will be absorbed
into the dry food. The individual needs of each animal vary. The
main thing is that they all need a little each day. So with
that being said , adjust the above amounts to your own pets individual
needs.
Over the years I have heard and read a lot about FOOD
GRADE D. E. being used as a natural wormer , but I have never
found any REALLY documented facts. I read reports that were sort
of official done by universities and other such type organizations.
But nothing that was ever really official. So I started doing
my own research and investigating.
D. E. is F.D.A. approved to be added to grain storage at a
ratio of about 8 pounds to a ton of grain. It keeps the
bugs from destroying the grain when it is stored in the
grain silos. As the grain is put into the storage bins the
D. E. is mixed with it.
When the grain is removed and ground up and milled to
make flour the D. E. is not removed from it. So when ever you
and I eat a loaf of bread etc. we get the D. E. along with
it and it becomes part of our diet.
I may be wrong on the time period , but from what I have
found out it is that the use of D. E. in any major amount
or commercial use for this purpose was in the 1940's. It has
been used for that purpose for hundreds of years , but not to
any extent commercially.
Humans have always had problems with worms and other parasites
in their systems in this country. But , around the same time period
( 1940's ) when D. E. was introduced on a commercial basis to
our food supply a noticeable decrease in the amount of people
that had internal parasite problems also decreased. I find this to
be fascinating. It does not take rocket science to figure out
that there may be some type of relationship here. The use of
D. E. for this purpose has increased steadily over the years and
today it is rare to here of some one having internal parasites.
It still occurs , but not like it once did.
There are several theories and opinions of why and how the
D. E. controls the worms and other parasites. But again , nothing concrete.
Except for the fact that it does work , so , if it isn't broken
don't fix it. Just accept the fact and let it go at that.